I wake up later than usual this morning, potentially due to the fact that I have finally relaxed into my holiday, and have left the rigid schedule of work and home life back in the UK. Or, potentially due to the full day and late night that preceded it.
I have decided to visit the Alcazar de los Reyes Christianos this morning and hope to get there before the heat and other tourists take over. This was the place I most wanted to visit once I decided to come to Cordoba.
The entrance does not disappoint. The courtyard within the palace walls has been excavated, exposing stone ruins which lay at the foot of the sprawling building. The scale is impressive and I feel humbled by the history that these walls have seen.
There are only a couple of interior rooms open to the public, the most impressive being the hall of mosaics. It’s fairly common to see a historic mosaic floor, however when they have been transposed onto a wall, the sheer size and detail is astounding. It’s almost as if something hung on a wall gives it more gravitas than something you would walk on.
I follow the signs leading to the tower and know I’m about to experience something special. I wind my way up the spiral staircase, the stone steps worn down and pitted from years of use. I reach the rooftop walkway and am delighted to get a perfect view of the Royal Stables, as well as the exterior courtyard with its palm tree standing at attention.
I continue up the tower and reach the top where the panorama of the city stretches before me. I meet two American girls and offer to take their photograph in exchange for one of me.
What strikes me the most about the scene below me is how silent it all is. This area of the city is mostly pedestrian zones, the royal gardens and the mosque-cathedral, which creates a calm bubble of space that feels almost untouched by modern civilisation.
From the top of the tower I spy the formal gardens and the delicious greenery calls me to explore it.
Although it’s September and the flowers are on their last blooms, the architecture of the garden is on full display and it is breathtaking. Water features and fountains adorn different levels of the garden each creating a frame of sorts from which to view the palace at a different angle.
An impressive statue in the center of the garden of a giant king and queen, remind me of chess pieces ready to come alive.
I enjoy a peaceful quarter of an hour exploring hidden spaces and admiring little details, such as the patterned paving tiles before the area begins to fill with other sightseers. I take this as my cue to move on with my day.
I stop for my customary croissant and water before wandering the alleyways of shops and bars, eventually coming across the Royal Baths of the Caliphate Castle.
I stop in, thinking the underground archaeological exhibition will give me a break from the heat but if anything it’s hotter than outside, ideal for the baths! I’m amazed by the complexity of the engineering and smitten by the little star shaped holes in the ceiling that deliver daylight.
I succumb to the heat pretty quickly and exit back out into the fresh air. I wander towards my guesthouse contemplating what to do with the rest of my last day in Cordoba.
I am in my own world as I meander the streets, but my attention is quickly drawn to royal stables. Its large double doors are open and people are walking in and out. My curiosity gets the better of me and I wander in to see what’s happening. The gentleman on the gate tells me there is a horse show running today and it’s free to watch. I don’t think I could have planned a more perfect way to spend my afternoon if I had tried. I buy myself some drinks and settle into a front row seat under a shady canopy.
I don’t know the competition rules but it seems similar to a dressage freestyle, with each competitor performing set movements in whichever order they please to music. I am transfixed by the beauty and ability of each horse and rider combination. The outfits paying homage to Spanish tradition and the music a mix of modern day pop and Spanish staples.
I watch the entire class and before I know it the entire afternoon has passed. I don’t think I’ve ever felt so happy. The advantage to travelling solo is being able to do exactly what interests you even if it’s niche!
As the horse show comes to an end I find a cafe and try some more traditional dishes. A Salmorejo, a type of gazpacho,and tortilla de patata, a potato omelette.
Once I’ve satisfied my hunger I finally reach the guesthouse and fall into bed after a fabulous day of exploring and relaxing in my element.
Live Wild and Free 